KOSTAS and the yummy world

KOSTAS and the yummy world

Mount Parnassus

(Part I)

June 2019

Mount Parnassus (Παρνασσός) is one of the largest mountainous regions of Mainland Greece and one of the highest Greek mountains (2,457 m). It lies in central Greece north of the Gulf of Corinth and it is mostly known for the Sanctuary of Delphi and as a popular winter destination for the Athenians.

Besides Delphi, the most popular destination on the mountain is the town of Arachova (Αράχοβα). Agoriani (Eptalofos) is also a popular winter destination. I decided to visit the beautiful village of Agoriani (Αγόριανη) during summer to escape from the Athenian hot summer nights. Agoriani is about 2.5 hours driving from Athens.

The location of Mount Parnassus on the map of Greece (left). The limits of the mountain (right).

The geological particularity of Parnassus is its rich deposits of bauxite, which has led to their systematic mining since the end of the 1930s, resulting in ecological damage to part of the mountain.

On the other hand, the significant biodiversity, both in flora and in fauna, led the authorities to the establishment of the National Park of Parnassus in 1938 (the year when the systematic mining of bauxite started). At the slopes of Mount Parnassus operate two ski sections, Kellaria and Fterolakka, which together make up the largest ski center in Greece.

Bauxite mining at the south of Mount Parnassus (near Itea).

Mount Parnassus by Edward Dodwell (1821).

Mythology

Mount Parnassus is named after Parnassos, the son of the nymph Kleodora and the man Kleopompus. A city, of which Parnassos was leader, was flooded by torrential rains. The citizens ran from the flood, following wolves' howling, up the mountain slope. There the survivors built another city, and called it Lykoreia, which in Greek means "the howling of the wolves."

While Orpheus was living with his mother and his eight beautiful aunts on Parnassus, he met Apollo who was courting the laughing muse Thalia. Apollo became fond of Orpheus and gave him a little golden lyre, and taught him to play it. Orpheus's mother taught him to make verses for singing. As the Oracle of Delphi was sacred to the god Apollo, so did the mountain itself become associated with Apollo. Parnassus was the site of the fountain Castalia and the home of the Muses. As the home of the Muses, Parnassus became known as the home of poetry, music, and learning.

Parnassus was also the site of several unrelated minor events in Greek mythology. In some versions of the Greek flood myth, the ark of Deucalion comes to rest on the slopes of Parnassus. This is the version of the myth recounted in Ovid's Metamorphoses. Orestes spent his time in hiding on Mount Parnassus. Parnassus was sacred to the god Dionysus. The Corycian Cave, located on the slopes of Parnassus, was sacred to Pan and to the Muses. In Book 19 of The Odyssey, Odysseus recounts a story of how he was gored in the thigh during a boar hunt on Mount Parnassus in his youth. Parnassus was also the home of Pegasus, the winged horse of Bellerophon.

Apollo on Mount Parnassus (1510) by Sanzio Raphael.

The Parnassic movement

The relation of the mountain to the Muses offered an instigation to its more recent "mystification", with the poetic-artistic trend of the 19th century called "Parnassism" (or Parnassianism). The Parnassic movement was established in France in the decade 1866–1876 as a reaction to Romanticism with a return to some classicistic elements and belief in the doctrine "Art for the Art", first expressed by Theophile Gautier. The periodical “Modern Parnassus”, issued for the first time by Catul Mendes and Xavier Ricard, contained direct references to Mt. Parnassus and its mythological feature as habitation of the Muses. The Parnassists, who did not exceed a group of twenty poets, exercised a relatively strong influence on the cultural life of Paris, particularly due to their tenacity on perfection of rhyme and vocabulary. Parnassism influenced several French poets, but it also exercised an influence on Modern Greek poets, particularly Kostis Palamas and Gryparis.

Portrait of Théophile Gautier by Théodore Chassériau.

The name of the mountain (Mont Parnasse) was also given to a quarter of Paris on the left bank of the Seine, where artists and poets used to gather and recite their poems in public.

1890 Wood Engraving Mount Parnassus and Delphi.

DAY 1: from Agoriani to Arachova

The most popular part of the mountain (besides Delphi) is the dipole “Arachova-Agoriani”, the two famous winter resorts. They stand at the two ends of a high plateau: Agoriani (Ano Agoriani, to be more precise; aka Eptalofos) is located in a dense forest at the north of the plateau, while Arachova is located in the rather dry north side of the plateau. 25 km (30min) of a good paved road connect the two resorts. These two towns are the gateways to the Parnassos Ski Center. On the plateau, a dirt offshoot of the main road leads to the famous Corycian Cave (Κωρύκειον άντρο).

The dipole Arachova-Agoriani.

Agoriani

Agoriani (Αγόριανη) is a small village built on a slope at the north of the region. Eventhough, since 1928, the official name is Eptalofos (Επτάλοφος), Agoriani is the name everyone uses.The village is literally drowned in green with firs, plane trees, walnut trees, chestnuts and cherries which compose a beautiful natural landscape like no other, it instantly gains anyone who “slips through the net” of popular Arachova. The outskirts of the village blend into the dense pine tree forest that covers the area. Agoriani is a place for all seasons, as it offers to the visitor all the joys of the mountain, with different “colors and aromas” for each and every season, but its peak season is winter, when everything is covered in thick snow.

The central square in Agoriani. Enjoy iced coffee and the delicious local brand (Αγνή) lemonade.

The strolls at the alleys of Agoriani are so delightful and they are accompanied by the sound of the waterfall, the bells of the flocks and the chirp of the birds. The main attraction of the village is the small but cool central square. Four giant plane trees cast their heavy shadow on cafés and restaurants here. This is the perfect place to escape the heat of the summer months in Greece. By the square runs a stream of cold water. You can not miss it as its loud sound will certainly lead you to it. If you follow the waters upstream you will soon reach the famous “Agoriani waterfalls” located into dense vegetation. Do not expect anything huge; the waters fall from some meters only. The amazing thing here is that the waters have created a microenvironment rich is flora and fauna; and by fauna, I mean lots of beautiful (and not so beautiful) insects, not wolfs and bears! What surprise the visitor is the temperatures here, which are much lower than the ones some meters away on the square: you see the running waters are really cold as they originate from the melting snow and springs high on the mountain.

Agoriani waterfalls.

While in Agoriani, we stayed at a nice little hotel called “Asimina Guesthouse”. The rooms are well designed and comfortable and the lady who runs the place is really very gentle and always willing to help and give you any information you may need.

The real gem, though, of the village is a little culinary miracle. There is no way to say that you are going to visit the area, without someone to tell you that “you must go to the Γκρίζα Αρκούδα (Gray Bear) for dinner”. I am always “suspicious” of these kinds of recommendations, because they are usually just fashionable places, where you go to see and be seen and not to enjoy a delicious meal; or they are so expensive, I’d rather have a gyro takeaway instead. Oh, well. We ended having dinner there every single evening we spent in the area. The Gray Bear’s main room is heavily, but tastefully, decorated and has windows all around, so you can enjoy the mountains while you relish your meal. This is your only choice during winter, but during summer they also open a big garden, just opposite the main building, where you dine or lunch under huge walnut trees. The dishes are really delicious and you will certainly enjoy well cooked or roasted meats, local cheeses and vegetables. The only drawback I believe is that all main dishes are cooked with meat, no vegetarian main courses. But again, who cares!

The area is a walker paradise. From the village one can follow many trails. Famous European trails cross or start here, like the E4-Agoriani-Delphi, or E22-Agoriani-Polydrosos (Souvala).

E4 is the most famous path of Parnassus. A classic long-distance route (15.6km, about 7 hours walking) is the well-known European Route E4, which crosses Parnassus and connects Delphi with Agoriani. The route is part of the ancient path that united Delphi with Ancient Lilaia, north of Agoriani.

The easiest of them all is the 2.2km trail from the Agoriani main square to the chapel of Holy Trinity (Αγία Τριάδα). The chapel is usually closed, but one can rest here end enjoy nature at its best. The lazy ones can drive there, but be careful and drive slowly if you do not want to end up with a broken car.

The trail from Agoriani main square to the chapel of Trinity.

The glade in front of the chapel of Trinity.

Arachova

The real star of the area, though, is Arachova. Its name is of South Slavic origin and denotes a place with walnut trees. Arachova is a big, rich and beautiful, but also a real victim of over tourism. Arachova is for winter what Mykonos is for the summer. The town is so crowded during the winter season, not only from skiers, but also from thousands of Athenians, who starve for some snow-covered mountainous landscape. The place is overdeveloped and ugly winter- chalets spring out here and there, where green pastures or pine covered slopes used to be. During the period of the bliss and luscious living 90s and 00s, everyone who wanted to be “respected” and welcomed to the high society, should possess a chalet here and an island house on Mykonos. Those days have gone, but left behind ugly building complexes and a wounded south Parnassus.

#Arachova. Arachova at the background.

However, I should not be fair if stating only the negative elements. Arachova, has managed to maintain much of its traditional characteristics as a wealthy historical town. Many old houses have been restored and maintained, the culinary scene has been improved scientifically and new more sophisticated shops are spread mainly along the main road that divides the town into the upper and the lower town.

Arachova. Picture taken from the clock tower. Parnassus at the background

Arachova is not a long holiday destination, but it is more like a weekend break destination. For many people is just a stopover for lunch or coffee on their way from Athens to Delphi and back. If you have only a couple of hours to spend here, I strongly recommend you to have your coffee and pastry at “Cafe Dimakis”, which has the best views of all the cafes in town. If you are lucky, grasp one of the only two tables at the small veranda overlooking a gorge. Of course, there are many other cafés and restaurants with views to enjoy.

The main road of Arachova.

Corycian Cave

Between Arachova and Agoriani, just some km off the road connecting the two towns, stands the Corycian Cave (Κωρύκιον ἄντρον / Korykion antron). The cave is named after the nymph Corycia (Κωρύκεια); however, its name etymologically derives from korykos, "knapsack made of animal skin". A modern name for the cave in some references is Sarantavli, meaning "forty rooms".

The cave has two main halls and continues further with a narrow tunnel. The first chamber has a height of 50 meters and dimensions of about 90 by 60. It is full of stalactites with some stalagmites in the periphery. One of them, with a fairly large surface area, is called "table", and it is speculated that here the pilgrims who flocked to the cave throughout the antiquity, placed their offerings. This first hall has enough light to explore, but I would not recommend to proceed further without a good source of light.

The entrance to Corycian Cave (from the inside).

This cave was sacred to the Corycian Nymphs and the Muses, and a place of worship for Pan (the god of the wild, shepherds and flocks, nature of mountain wilds, rustic music and impromptus, and companion of the nymphs). Here, according to myth, Apollo seduced the nymph Corycia, and here she gave birth to her son, Lycorus. Traditionally the cave has been a place of refuge for the surrounding population during foreign invasions e.g. from the Persians in the 5th century BC, the Turks during the Greek War of Independence, and from the Germans in 1943.

How to reach the cave.

A) from Agoriani: drive for 12 km from the center of the village towards Arachova. Turn right to a dirt road just opposite a two-storey building with a brown road sign that writes: “εν λευκώ - ski rentals". Unfortunately, there are no proper road signs to lead you there. Drive for about 300m till you reach a road fork. I recommend you to leave the car here and continue on foot. With a 4x4 car it is possible to drive all the way to the cave, but it depends how much you want to damage your car. The uphill road to the cave is about 3km long (about 40min). At the end of the road there are some steps and a short path takes you to the entrance of the cave.

B) from Arachova: drive towards Agoriani, pass by Kalivia Arachovas and after 2km driving (10m before you see Pan Korikios -Taverna-Cafe-Mini Market on your right) turn left on a dirt road that goes parallel to the main road. Follow the signs and you will find yourself to the place I recommend to leave your car. Continue as in case A above.

Strabo, in his 'Geography', writes: “The whole of Parnassos is esteemed as sacred [to Apollon], since it has caves and other places that are held in honor and deemed holy. Of these the best known and most beautiful is Korykion, a cave of the Nymphai bearing the same name as that in Kilikia [in Asia Minor]”.

The ancient greek traveler Pausanias in his 'Guide to Greece, writes: “On the way from Delphi to the summit of Parnassus, about sixty stades distant from Delphi, there is a bronze image. The ascent to the Corycian cave is easier for an active walker than it is for mules or horses. I mentioned a little earlier in my narrative that this cave was named after a nymph called Corycia, and of all the caves I have ever seen this seemed to me the best worth seeing.... But the Corycian cave exceeds in size those I have mentioned, and it is possible to make one's way through the greater part of it even without lights. The roof stands at a sufficient height from the floor, and water, rising in part from springs but still more dripping from the roof, has made clearly visible the marks of drops on the floor throughout the cave. The dwellers around Parnassus believe it to be sacred to the Corycian nymphs, and especially to Pan”.

Parnassus ski resort

Both sections of the ski resort, Kellaria (Κελλάρια) and Fterolakka (Φτερόλακκα), can be reached from the road, which connects Arachova to Agoriani. From Agoriani, drive for 12 km on that road and then turn left for another 10km to the first section, Kellaria (1750m). The roads are well signed, as people visit here mainly to visit the ski resort. One can leave his car there and take the lift for the higher facilities (1950m). A lift connects the Kellaria facilities with the other section, Fterolakka (1850m). The two sections are connected by a 6km long road. The car parking of Fterolakka is at 1650m and from there a lift takes visitors up to the 1850m facilities. There is a road that goes all the way up if one wants to drive, but it is in a poor condition and full of big pot holes.

Red line: Arachova-Agoriani road. Blue line: Agoriani-Polydrosos-Amfikleia road. Green line: Amfikleia-Fterolakka road. Yellow line: Polydrosos-Fterolakka-Kellaria-Agoriani road.

Purple lines: on foot roads only. Yellow line: Kellaria-Fterolakka road. Green line: parking to Fterolakka road (with caution due to the state of of the road).).

During summer the lifts do not operate and everything is closed and looks neglected, but the views of the mountains around are really nice and it worth the short drive up here. Fterolakka is easier to be reached from the town of Amfikleia or from Polydrosos village.