Palazzo del Governatore.
Across the street from Eleftherias Square, imposes the “Palazzo del Governatore”, built in 1927 by Florestano Di Fausto.
Today, the building houses the offices of the Prefecture of the Dodecanese.
Since it is located on the beach, the “Palazzo del Governatore” is one of the first images of the city the visitor has, arriving from the sea.
Palazzo del Governatore seen from Kountourioti Square.
❤The architecture of Florestano di Fausto was highly eclectic.
It grafted decorative elements from various origins (Moorish domes, Venetian tracery, Gothic arches, and the clear, cuboid volumes of Aegean indigenous buildings) onto the framework of simple geometric forms favored by ‘Rationalist’ architecture.
It alternates in overall effect between Crusader military purity at one extreme and Oriental luxury at the other. Its most characteristic and architecturally courageous feature is the ‘submerged’ arcade (a broad, Gothic arch, or series of arches, supported on exceptionally low, stunted columns, which give the impression of sinking into the ground). The pleasing effect accentuates breadth and horizontality over the soaring height customarily associated with the Gothic arch.
The origin of this idea lies in the lower arcade of the "Palazzo Ducale” in Venice; but it is much exaggerated when it reappears in the port-side arcade of “Palazzo del Governatore”. 💔
Palazzo del Governatore. The north facede (top left). The east facede (top right, bottom left). West facede and arcade (righ middle/bottom).
At the southernmost tip of the Palazzo del Governatore, the "Church of San Giovanni" (Saint John) was built between 1924 and 1925. Di Fausto and Rodolfo Petracco designed the church, a replica of an older Hospitallers-era church located just opposite the entrance of the Palace in the Old Town, which was destroyed in 1856.
Currently, the church has been readapted internally to the Orthodox Faith. The perfectly preserved church, with its characteristic bell tower and its famed sarcophagi of the Great Magistrates, is now the Orthodox Metropolitan "Church of the Annunciation" (Ευαγγελισμός της Θεοτόκου).
Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation.
Church of the Annunciation.
Continue south on the main street of Mandraki (7th Martiou str), on your right hand, just opposite the entrance of the Church of the Annunciation, stands the "Main Post Office" (behind the post office are the police headquarters), the "Port Authority Building", and further down the "Courthouse" and the "Bank of Greece".
(from top clockwise) Post Office, Port Authority, Bank of Greece, Courthouse.
(top) The central Post Office and the Port Authority building. (bottom) Details of the Post Office facade.
Between the Bank of Greece and the Courthouse stands the historical “Aktaion” (Ακταίον) cafe.
❤ Aktaion was founded during the Ottoman era as an Officer’s club. The Italians in 1912 renamed the Club in “Circolo d ‘Italia” and it was used again as a Club of Italian Officers and State Senior Officials. They altered the exterior of the building, so it suited the new Italian era.
From 1912 until 1948, all social events occurred in the same Aktaion as today. In front of the Italian Club in Mandraki, parades, musical events, and significant political, sporting, social, and religious events took place. Every Sunday afternoon, brides would meet potential suitors and were auctioned.
“Aktaion”.
Thousands of young people, children, elders, and their families would go there every Sunday to take a walk and eat some ice cream – whilst the young boys would try to catch a hint, a nod, or a smile from one of the girls from the villages. 💔
“Aktaion”.
❤ Since 1948, all formal political speeches have been directed to the public, and numerous literary, sporting, and social events have been hosted at this historic center of Rhodos.
At the time of Liberation (March 31, 1947) and the incorporation of the Dodecanese islands with Greece (March 7, 1948), all events were centered and targeted at Aktaion, which is loved and appreciated by the locals and the visitors.
The tree of the beautiful, large, historic courtyard of Aktaion is also a historical monument. It is called Ficus Benjamina in Latin and “Syke” or “Mikra” in Greek. It was planted on Liberation Day as a reminder of the 5,000-year-old Hellenic Civilization in the Dodecanese! 💔
The New Market seen from the Yachting club Cafe at Neorion Square.
Next to the Bank of Greece, and just before the medieval town’s walls, stands the enormous hexagonal building of the “New Market” (Νέα Αγορά).
The New Market was built by the Italians at the place of the older Ottoman Market and features oriental elements, and is painted in white and ochre-gold colors.
The polygonal white building, opposite the moored yachts and sailboats of the marina, is the work of Fausto and served as the fish market of Rhodos until 1990: it has an outdoor central courtyard where the old fish market was in the giant gazebo with the fish decorations.
Today's New Market is a remnant of the old glorious and spectacular market. The authorities left it in despair, and most of the shops have been closed or moved to more attractive shops.
The Town Authorities are looking for a new investor who will renovate the market and make it the center of the city it used to be.
The New Market.
The New Market main Entrance seen from the Yachting club Cafe in a rainy day.
A 20's picture taken from the bell tower of San Giovanni shows the promenade in front of Mandraki port, where yachts are moored today. At the end of the promenade, you can see the New Market and, in the background, the Palace inside the Medieval Town walls.
Across the street from the New Market is the old port called "Mandraki," separated from the outer commercial harbor by the fortified jetty where three windmills and the 15th century Tower of Saint Nicholas stand (at the end of it).
Yachts moored outside New market at Mandraki port.
Mandraki Port.
The Italians built two deer, one male and the other female, which stand on pillars at the entrance of the Mandraki port (harbor) and symbolize the “platoni”, a local deer species.
The legend says that the famous "Colossus of Rhodes", one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, was standing in this same position, with his legs spread, so the boats entered the port by sailing underneath this colossal statue.
Between the New Market and the entrance of the Old Town is a shaded park area where, in the summer, street vendors sell all kinds of souvenirs and local products, and portraitists wait to offer their services to the tourists, sketching caricatures of them.
One of the two deer standing at the endrance of Mandraki Port.
Having dinner at "288 bar&wok" at Therme park.
In front of this park, there is a taxi station.
And this point (where it has started) ends your long architectural walk of the New Town. What better way to finish your long day than having a good dinner at “Therme” (inside Therme Park)? "Therme" is advertised as the only “food entertainment park,” … and it is precisely this.
Under the same roof of a modern building, as well as outside in the park, under the lavish vegetation, there is a Chinese restaurant (288 bar&wok), a sushi bar (Rodos Susgi Sowbar), a meat restaurant, a bakery/café (Swedco Café) and much more.
We dined at the place more than once, as it was very well located (just opposite our hotel), but also because the food was excellent, the ambiance great and the prices perfect.
The Colossus of Rhodes
One of the many representaions of "Colossus of Rhodos".
❤ The "Colossus of Rhodos" was built between 292 and 280 BC. The statue depicted the Greek Titan Helios (The Sun). It was meant to celebrate the Rhodian victory over the Demetrius Poliorketes (Demetrius the Βesieger), who unsuccessfully sieged the city in 305 BC.
At 30 meters high, the Colossus was one of the tallest statues of the ancient world. It only stood for 56 years until it was destroyed by an earthquake in 226 BC.
When the would-be conquerors of Demetrius Poliorketes did not manage to conquer the city, they left behind much of their equipment. The Rhodians sold the equipment and used the money to build the Colossus and used brass and iron from this equipment to make the statue itself.
The architect/sculptor of the Colossus was Chares of Lindos.
The "Statue of Liberty" in NYC has been referred to as the ‘Modern Colossus' and is the same height as the ancient Colossus. "The New Colossus” (1883), a sonnet by Emma Lazarus engraved on a bronze plaque and mounted inside the pedestal of the Statue of Liberty in 1903.
Ptolemy III, the king of Egypt, offered to pay for the Colossus' reconstruction, but the Rhodians refused. They believed that God Helios was angered by the statue and caused the earthquake that destroyed it. The Arabs conquered the Rhodians in the 7th century A.D. The Arabs dismantled what was left of the Colossus and sold it as scrap metal. This is probably why we haven't found any remnants of the statue until today.
A gravure of the Colossus (from the series "The Eighth Wonders of the World") after Maarten van Heemskerck, 1572. Today in the collection of the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rotterdam.
The platoni deer of Rhodos
The platoni deer of Rhodes.
❤ For many years, the platoni, the little deer of Rhodos, considered an island emblem, beautifies its forests and is a part of its tradition. It is one of the few deer species in Europe that has survived until today.
Many popular stories relate to the growth and presence of deer on the island. Many claim that the platoni came to the island of Rhodos with the arrival of the Crusaders. This theory has been correlated with other historical characteristics of the island. Rhodos is referred to in ancient texts as "Ofiusa" which means "having a lot of snakes". According to this theory, to protect their camps from snakes, the Crusaders brought the deer to be used as guards. Even though the deer do not hunt to kill snakes, as many believe, it is said that the antlers of the deer secrete an essence, a smell that annoys and drives snakes away. So, some of these animals, which the Crusaders brought, escaped from the camps, hid in the forests, and later created the existing population.
However, Rhodos is also referred to in ancient texts as "Elafousa" meaning that in those days, it had many deer, which naturally existed on the island before all conquerors.
Archaeological findings that indicate the existence of the deer in the East Aegean date back to the 6th millennium BC. 💔
The harbor-straddling Colossus was a figment of medieval imaginations based on 14th-century texts that noted the local tradition held that "the right foot had stood on the land and the other in the sea". Later illustrations show the statue with one foot on either side of the harbor mouth and ships passing under it. References to this conception are also found in literary works (e.g., Shakespeare's “Julius Caesar”).
While these fanciful images feed the misconception, the mechanics reveal that the Colossus could not have straddled the harbor as described above.
A gravure of the harbor-straddling Colossus.
The Colossus of Rhodes, by Patrimonios Del Mundo.
If the completed statue had straddled the harbor, the entire mouth of the harbor would have been effectively closed during the construction, and the ancient Rhodians did not have the means to dredge and re-open the harbor after construction. Even neglecting these objections, the statue was made of bronze, and engineering analyses indicate that it could not have been built with its legs apart without collapsing from its weight.
While scholars generally agree that anecdotal depictions of the Colossus straddling the harbor's entry point have no historical or scientific basis, the statue's actual location remains a matter of debate. Some postulate that the Colossus was not located in the harbor area but was part of the “Acropolis of Rhodes”, which stood on a hill overlooking the port area. Others believe that the statue stood further south, outside the “Marine Gate” of the Medieval Town, or at the mouth of “Kolona-Fishing Harbor”. 💔
Long Weekend's Journey into the Rhodian Winter
(December 2017)
Prologue
Rhodos in winter.
My introduction to Rhodos dates back to the late 70s, courtesy of my sister's school trip. She returned bearing umbrellas as gifts for everyone and a possibly counterfeit azure Lacoste polo shirt for me, a souvenir from the prevalent fake Lacoste market in the area.
Yes, umbrellas were the go-to gift from Rhodos back then - perhaps a tax incentive? They remain a staple in souvenir shops on the island, clearly not due to the excessive rainfall! The tradition of umbrellas lives on, serving as a nostalgic reminder of past holidays on this charming Greek island.
Upon announcing my plan to spend the New Year's holidays on the picturesque Rhodos Island, everyone unanimously responded, "What in the world will you do in Rhodos in the winter?"
This question lingers as I ponder my winter escapade on Rhodos, brimming with anticipation and curiosity.
"Καλαφατας Umbrellas", a rhodian institution.
Rhodos Island. The Town of Rhodos is located at the very north tip of the island.
Detail of the easter facade of Palazzo del Governatore in Rhodos Town.
Consequently, thanks to my sister, I was introduced to the enchanting “Island of the Knights”: with its historic walled city, sun-kissed beaches, charming Italian-style buildings, and a breathtaking valley teeming with colorful butterflies. However, one wonders, did she truly absorb all the beauty and wonders the place had to offer? This was during the 1970s, a time when she embarked on her first extended journey far from home – an escapade etched in her memory forever! 😎
My encounter with Rhodos came back ten years later when I embarked on a student trip to the island. The memories that linger in my mind are not the typical tourist attractions. What resonates the most is the arduous 22-hour boat journey from Piraeus to Rhodos, where I found rest on the upper deck floor next to a large buoy. Following that, a peaceful night's sleep under the starlit sky at the island's port, nestled in a sleeping bag with a blue exterior and red interior, anticipating the return trip. These captivating experiences truly encapsulate the essence of the period spent exploring the enchanting Dodecanese islands.
Since then I have visited the island several times for long weekends and a couple of times on business trips. But never during winter!
(*) My friend Maria on that trip had exactly the same sleeping bag as mine, but that was red outside and blue inside... long live the boy-girl stereotypes! 😀
Orientation
Rhodes Island, also known as Rhodos or Ρόδος, is a substantial island offering a plethora of attractions and activities. I deliberately chose to stay close to Rhodos Town this New Year's Eve despite the island's vastness.
With around 60,000 residents, the town boasts a rich history that intertwines with ancient civilizations up to modern times. From its classical antiquity roots to the Hellenistic and Byzantine eras, the influence of crusaders, Islamic rule, Italian occupation, and eventual union with Greece in 1947, Rhodos Town is brimming with historical significance and many cultural landmarks waiting to be explored.
Relaxing in winter time.
The Town of Rhodos.
Winter in Rhodes offers a more serene experience than the bustling summer months. While many restaurants, museums, and attractions may be closed, the open ones cater to locals, providing authentic cuisine at reasonable prices. The highlight of visiting in winter is the opportunity for peaceful and leisurely walks, a stark contrast to the crowded streets of summer, where encountering other tourists or securing a restaurant table can be a challenge.
Travelers exploring Rhodes Town will discover three distinct areas to discover and enjoy at their own pace, each offering unique experiences and cultural insights.
❤Rhodos Old Town, still enclosed by its medieval walls,
❤Rhodos New Town, north and west of the Old Town, which includes the New Port (the Commercial Harbor), Mandraki (the yacht and ferry harbor) Elli Beach & the Casino, and
❤Acropolis of Rhodos, the ruins of the ancient city.
The three windmilles at Mandraki port.
Ladies and gentlemen this is one of the most fascinating places in the Mediterranean Sea, a history book of its own, one of the most beautiful islands.
This is Rhodos!
Arriving on the island
“Diagoras” International Airport is the main gate to the island. Even during winter, several flights connect the island to Athens. The flight lasts only 45 minutes. From March to October, the island is served by many charter flights from all over Europe and the Middle East. There are also scheduled air connections with other Greek islands in the area: Kos, Kastellorizo, etc.
The airport is located 14 km south of Rhodos Town and has a good bus and taxi connection. The bus to the city costs 2.6 euros, and the ride lasts 30-40 min, depending on the traffic. The taxi costs twenty-five euros, which rip off for a 20-30 minute drive. Nevertheless, if you want to explore the whole island, you should hire a car which is much cheaper and more convenient than the taxi… unless you feel uncomfortable driving “the Greek way”.
Fort of Saint Nicholas, at the entrance of Mandraki port.
We arrived on the island early in the morning. We checked into our room the moment we arrived, so we were free to explore the island.
The weather was not ideal for walking, but there were so many umbrellas to buy! 🙂
Note
I decided to include a lot of history and architecture information in the description of this trip. This may not be of much interest to every reader. So, this extra information is given in the following text in "italics" bracketed like this: ❤text💔.
In this way, it is easier for the reader to leave out "unwanted" information.
DAY 1
The New Town
The square in front of "Evangelismos" church, at Mandraki port.
The “New Town” is the part of the town spread outside the walls and covers the island's northernmost tip. Most of the bigger hotels and many restaurants, bars, cafes, and commercial shops are located there.
The town would be a typical modern Greek, colorless, and chaotic city if the Italians did not elaborate it with beautiful, lavish public buildings throughout their occupation of the island. Rhodes was “the crown” of the “Italian islands of the Aegean" ("Isole Italiane dell' Egeo”).
The Italians planned the city with beautiful parks around the walls and public buildings. It was the Italian Governor Mario Lago (1924–36) who was responsible for the commissioning of a comprehensive new Master Plan for the expansion of the city of Rhodos outside the walls, which was entrusted to the architect Florestano di Fausto and approved in 1926.
The Master Plan envisioned the development of an area (already partially used by the Ottomans for administrative buildings and large residences) to the west of the port of Mandraki, between the Old City and the northern tip of the island. Against the theatrical background of the City of the Knights, with all its convenient associations of Latin dominance, a new “Foro Italico” of commercial and administrative buildings was to be spaciously laid out along the shore.
Associated with this plan for the city was the broader project for the construction of new streets and roads, and in the frame of this plan, the Italians demolished the Ottoman period houses that were built in and around the city walls and “restored” the Medieval City to its pre-ottoman status.
Even today, the buildings at the Mandraki front are used as city and prefecture public buildings. I must admit that nothing has been done to the city since the Italians handed the islands to the Greeks besides constructing unimaginative concrete buildings.
I should not be misunderstood, though; Rhodos town is a charming medium-sized city with many cafes, restaurants, commercial shops, and little green spots where a colossal ficus tree usually dominates the place with its grandeur and thick shade.
Italian Colonial Architecture in the Dodecanese
❤ The Italians sought to give a unifying architectural stamp to the Mediterranean and African territories which they occupied in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
They occupied the Dodecanese from 1912 to 1943. At first, they tried a new, pan-Mediterranean, "Rationalist" architecture which, by incorporating different elements of local traditions (Greek, Roman, Venetian, Ottoman, Middle Eastern & North African Islamic), was intended to give the visible impression of the extent and diversity of the new empire. This gave rise to the period's most significant and most imaginative buildings. This period corresponds to the period Mario Lago (1924–36) was Governor of the Dodecanese. But it was to prove a short-lived architectural springtime.
After 1936, with the new political Governor, Cesare Maria de Vecchi (who had formerly been Mussolini’s Minister for Education), and the declaration of the Fascist ‘Imperium’, architecture had to turn to more austere forms following the demands imposed by more authoritarian politics. Some of the earlier buildings were even purged of their decorative elements in a ‘purification’ of colonial architecture. Such an example is the “Grande Albergo delle Rose”, which ‘purified’ of its decorative details and ‘arabesques’ to reveal a stern, more serious core in unadorned ‘poros’ limestone (the building took a form like that of the present day). Fortunately, many more early buildings have survived throughout the Dodecanese than the later ‘purified’ ones. 💔
A walk of Italian architectural splendor
Start your Italian architecture walk at the “Therme Park” (in Diakou str.), which was once part of the luxury "Thermae Hotel".
Today the hotel houses part of the “Rhodos College for Hospitality Management”, and its gardens have been converted into a park, the most significant part of which is occupied by a modern complex of restaurants and bars. Leave the park behind you and walk in Sofokleous Venizelou str. for a couple of blocks till you reach “Akadimias Square” (Πλατεία Ακαδημίας). On the square, there are two important buildings of the Italian colonial era: the Men's High School ("Scuola Maschile"), which today houses the «Teachers Training College of Higher Education», and just opposite of it, an eclectic building built in 1928 to house the “ItalianYouth Club” and which today accommodates the "Rhodos Scout Club".
“Rhodos College for Hospitality Management”, opposite Therme Park.
A walk in New Town.
"Squola maschile" (top) and "Italian Youth Club" (bottom).
Continue north till you reach the main entrance of the Casino.
Turn left on Kastelorizou Street to reach the "Gavriil Charitou Square" (Πλατεία Γαβριήλ Χαρίτου). Around this elongated square, lined with palm trees, are some excellent examples of “Italian colonial” architecture, namely, what is today a bank and the under-renovation buildings next to it.
Stand on the long axis of the square and look north to see the "Enidryon" (Aquarium & Museum of Marine Life) framed by two substantial modern hotels in the foreground.
Italian architecure at "Gavriil Charitou Square".
The Aquarium is an Art Deco building designed by the Italian architect Armando Bernabiti, who constructed it between 1934 and 1935.
❤ When the Aquarium started operations in 1937, it was named the "Reale Istituto di Ricerce Biologiche di Rodi" (Royal Biological Research Institute of Rhodos). Research included hydrology, sponges, and fisheries of the Aegean.
The Rhodos Aquarium.
When the island handed back to Greece, after the WWII, the facility was operated as part of the "Hellenic Hydrobiological Institute". Since 1963 it has been known as the "Hydrobiological Station of Rhodes", and is administered by the National Centre of Marine Research. An exhibition area was added to the north side of the building in 1971–72.💔
The Rhodos Aquarium in a grey winter day.
In front of the aquarium, there is a vast open space, the “Enidryo Square” (Πλατεία Ενυδρείου). At this point, you have a 360-degree view of the island's northern tip.
Sandy beaches surround the aquarium. The one on the east side is the famous “Elli Beach” (Παραλία Έλλη), and the one on the west is the "Akti Miaouli Beach".
Continue your walk along the Elli beach southwards (towards the city).
The Rhodos Casino.
Elli beach in winter.
From Elli Beach, you can see the Turkish coast of Asia Minor, while on your right hand, you pass by the “Rhodos Casino”, a luxury hotel that opened its doors in 1927 as “Grande Albergo delle Rose”.
❤ The hotel changed hands several times and eventually closed in the mid-seventies. The building was renovated and opened again in 2002 as a casino and hotel. Throughout the years, royalty, statesmen, and other prominent international figures have walked through the imposing front doors, including Greek prime ministers Eleftherios Venizelos, Konstantinos Karamanlis and Georgios Papandreou, the Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, and the Israeli Minister of Defence Moshe Dayan.
Its lavish premises have housed events of great historic importance, most significantly the 1948 signing of the foundation of the State of Israel.💔
The “Grande Albergo delle Rose” in its original form.
Next to the Casino is the Rhodos Tennis Club, just behind which stands the “Mourat Reis Mosque” and its neglected garden and Ottoman cemetery. The Murat Reis Mosque is one of the oldest mosques on the island, built less than a year after the Ottoman conquest in 1523.
❤The mosque was constructed on the site of the Aghios Antonios church next to the cemetery of the Knights. The mosque's exterior boasts an ornate minaret from which the call to prayer has been heard through the centuries. The mosque is named after Murat Reis and is buried in the cemetery on the grounds. One of the Ottoman Empire’s most successful naval commanders, many also considered him to be one of the most important Barbary corsairs. For centuries, sailors visited his tomb at the mosque, seeking good luck at sea. Later in life, the Ottoman Sultan relieved him of his post, presumably because of his sarcastic poetry. 💔
The Mourat Reis Mosque.
It is a pity that the surrounding grounds of such a critical monument have been left in despair.
The entrance of the mosque and the gardens is on Kountourioti Square.
The Mourat Reis Mosque: Tekke Murat Reis ottoman complex entrance (top left), the Ottoman cemetery (bottom) and the minaret (left).
At the south-west corner of the Ottoman cemetery, behind the Tennis Club, stands "Villa Kleobolos", a kiosk-like house, where lived the philhellene and friend of Rhodos poet and novelist Lawrence Durrell for two years (from 20/05/1945 to 10/04/1947) with his future wife Eve Cohen. So, for his fans, this is a "must-visit" place.
Durrell held the post of Information Officer in the British Military Administration of the Dodecanese.
❤ In the spring of 1945, Durrell, ''speechless with gratitude'' upon taking his first swim in the blue Aegean, realized that ''space, light, and solitude will have to be rediscovered again here, in all their ramifications.'' ''Reflections on a Marine Venus", Durrell's account of ''two lucky years'' spent on Rhodos, published in 1953, became the first book of postwar Mediterranean travel and the beginning of a series of books, popular songs, colorful movies and tempting travel images from which the Greek tourist boom of the 1960s would emerge. 💔
Villa Kleobolos where Lawrence Durrell lived for two years.
"Reflections on a Marine Venus". This 1953 Edition depicts the Old Town of Rhodos on its cover page.
Continue south till you reach "Kountourioti Square" (Πλατεία Κουντουριώτη), which today is a big open car parking.
The Square (formerly known as the "Piazza 23 Marzo") is surrounded by important buildings.
The "ELLI" structural complex is situated at the Punta della Sabia (known as Kum Burnu under Ottoman rule), which, together with the building of the Rhodes Marine Club (Yachting Club & swimming pool) and the restaurant next door, delimits the square’s northern boundaries.
The "ELLI" structural complex in the foreground and the Yaghting Club in the background.
Westwards, the square is bordered by the Tekke Murat Reis Ottoman complex, eastwards by the seafront, and southwards by the building housing the administrative services of the Prefecture of the Dodecanese (Palazzo Governale).
ELLI (Έλλη) (originally known as “La Ronda”) was built over the period between 1936 and 1938 on a project believed to have been elaborated by the Italian Architect Armando Bernabiti.
Together with the concrete diving board (trampoline) off the beachfront, it was destined to house a bathing facility and a snack bar.
“La Ronda”.
Τhe concrete diving board (trampoline) off the beachfront.
❤The complex itself is a statement of eclectic style, typical of the time of its construction, albeit featuring several details perfectly harmonized with the “oriental” style. Striking is its voluble design perfectly adjusted to the environing area and the complex’s overall allure, the predominant feature of which is the circular hall (hence the original name of “La Ronda”), endowed with spacious arched window doors under a vaulted roof dotted with a multitude of small, lozenge-form skylights.
ELLI has come down in history as the most impressive example of a bathing facility. The ground floor was meant to be used for storage of canoes, boats, and relevant gear as well as hosting a kitchen and a cloth press, the whole connected to the upper floor through an internal staircase; the premises on both the ground floor and the upper floor of the northern wing harbored the lockers. 💔
(top) Elli, Yaghting Club and the Fort St Nicholas seen from the north (Elli beach). The Rhodos Marine Club seen from Mandraki (middle). The Rhodes Marine Club (bottom).
Old pictures of Elli and the Kountourioti Square.
❤ Upon the Dodecanese’s annexation to Greece, the main building was converted to an officer’s club for the crew of the USS “COURIER” aboard, which “Voice of America (VOA)” used to broadcast. That was how the upper floor was cut off from the ground floor premises for the first time. Later, the upper floor hosted various nightclubs, dancing venues, bars, etc.
In 1987, the complex was formally classified as a protected heritage monument by the Hellenic Ministry of Culture. 💔
The Rhodos Marine Club.
Today, Elli houses a restaurant, a bar, a beach snack bar, and a disco Club. The building next to Elli houses a fish tavern, and the Yachting Club building accommodates a Beach lounge cafe and restaurant.
Kountourioti Square seen from Eleftherias Square.
“Eleftherias Square” and the Town Hall in Christmas.
To the south of Kountourioti Square, you see the short side of a long building housing the administrative services of the Prefecture of the Dodecanese. The entrance of the building is on the “Eleftherias Square” (former "Piazza dell' Impero" and "Piazza Balbo"), which is surrounded by three important buildings of the fascist period designed by architect Armando Bernabiti, namely,
a) National Theater,
b) City Hall, and
c) Police Headquarters.
❤ With Armando Bernabiti, there is a transition to a new generation of buildings in the late 1930s: purer, undecorated, and in every way more minimal and more consonant with the politics of the repressive Governorship of Cesare Maria de Vecchi.
The simplicity is already recognizable in his early (1934) aquarium building. Still, his later creations (the Puccini Theatre, the Town Hall, and the church of San Francisco) tend ineluctably toward the military in spirit. Several of Di Fausto’s earlier buildings were "renovated" to a new austere form in this later period. 💔
The “National Theater”.
❤The National Theatre impresses with its unique architecture, combining the "International style" and the "Italian (fascist) style" architecture. This is expressed by the cubist mood, simplicity and symmetry, lack of any ornamentation, horizontal openings, and much more. For this reason, it is one of the most famous examples of the art of “Finta Pietra” with glass blocks in Greece.
The theater's main facade imitates the medieval town's great Porta Marina (Marine Gate). The main hall is impressive, has great depth and height, and can accommodate 1,200 guests. It also features a stunning foyer, luxury boxes, and a huge balcony.
a) The National Theater.
The building on the square's north side is the “National Theater”, originally the “Teatro Puccini”, built in 1937.
The massive theater had its big moments of glory, hosting even performances of Italian opera. After the war and the integration of Rhodos to Greece, it continued to function as a theater and cinema in the city.
Today, the National Theater is under major renovations, after years of neglect. 💔
“National Theater”.
b. The City Hall.
The City Hall dominates Eleftherias Square. This edifice was built between 1936 and 1939 under the De Vecchi government as the “Casa del Fascio" (Fascist Administration Building).
The building in local stone follows the academic schemes of fascist architecture. In 1939, three statues of Roman emperors, donated by Mussolini, were placed in front of the building. These statues are now exhibited in the gardens of the Palace of the Grand Master in the medieval town of Rhodos.
The City Hall decorated for Christmas.
Before the construction of the buildings, the Piazza dell' Impero was a racecourse.
The Square is cluttered with cars today.
The Town Hall is well preserved; one can see original furniture in its interior.
The building is accessible to the public, and the tourist can grab the atmosphere of an Italian office building of the forties with many shelves, archives, desks, chairs, etc.
On the north side of the City Hall Building (1, Efstathiadou str) stands the Municipal Theater “Ρόδον”, an open-air theater that stages lots of cultural events during the summer months.
c. Palazzo della Forze Armate.
On the south part of the Square is located the former “Palace of the Armed Forces” (“Palazzo della Forze Armate”).
Today, the building houses the Greek Police.
Municipal Theater “Το Ροδον”.
“Palazzo della Forze Armate”.